Wednesday, 13 May 2009

Your Japanese word of the week is...

"genbaku" 原爆 which means "atomic bomb". As to be expect, I kicked off my first real "far" destination with Hiroshima, the unenviable home to the world's first nuclear bomb attack on August 6, 1945. I won't go into the details as I'm sure you guys can (and should) read more about it later.

But before we go any further, I'd like to make two points:

1- Yes, you might notice some vignetting in some of my photos. That's because I left my polarizing filter on the whole trip- even when shooting at really wide angles.... oops haha....

2- I sort of became intrigued with patterns, symmetry, and textures, so some of the pictures will reflect that... I really don't know much when it comes to shooting them (or anything, really haha) so feel free to comment...

Anyway...

A short ride on the tram from Hiroshima Station drops you off right at the entrance to Peace Park and right at the tram-side entrance is the view of the Genbaku-dome, or the Atomic Bomb Dome. This was one of the few structures that still stood after the bombing and is the only structure that remains to this day. It originally served as the Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall and now serves as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a timely reminder of what happened some 60 years ago.

The park itself is really rather peaceful (no pun intended) and it does a good job of isolating the city's noise as well as feeling open despite the flocks of tourists and Hiroshima citizens (Hiroshimians?? Hiroshimites?? heh) who relax here. I particularly like the fact that, because of the park's history, it seems to exude a subtle yet strong sombre feel to it and everything around it quiets down as if in reflective contemplation- some people even take up activities such as painting or sketching the dome (above).

This is the statue at the Monument for Teachers and Students of Elementary Schools. That is, teachers and students affected by the bombing. Notice the huge drapes of folded origami cranes dedicated to one Sadako Sasaki, more famously known as the little girl who believed folding 1000 paper cranes would cure her radiation-induced leukemia. Some of her original cranes can be found in the Peace Museum and other cranes can be found all over the park, especially at the statue dedicated to Sadako.

Above is the Memorial Cenotaph. It houses the names of every person who perished the day of the bombing and lines up directly with both the Peace Flame (T-shaped object in the mid-ground) and the Dome in the back. The Peace Flame has burnt continuously since 1964 and will do so until all the world's nuclear weapons are disposed of.

To the right of the Memorial Cenotaph is this, the Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims. Both outside and inside (seen above) contain a fountain with a clock shape frozen at 8:15am, the time the bomb went off. The inside is particularly amazing in that, as you can see above, it contains a gigantic mural of the view of Hiroshima after the bombing. More than that, the entire mural is actually a mosaic of 140,000 individual tiles- the same as the number of victims believed to have perished by the end of 1945.

A short walk from the Memorial Hall is the Peace Memorial Museum which walks visitors through the history of Hiroshima, development of the atomic bomb, events leading up to the bombing, and the after-effects. The upper picture is a display showing the height at which the Little Boy bomb exploded (600m above ground) and the picture below are some before and after shots I put together. The left side are before the bombing, the right side being the result. The white square in the bottom right picture is the hypocentre.

Also in the museum are various items donated by survivors or families of survivors. The helmet and tricycle above are from a man's 3 year old son who perished in the initial blast. The man buried the items with his son in his yard. Forty years later, as he transferred the remains of his son to the family grave, he donated the tricycle and helmet to the museum.

The above photo shows a sister and brother, who were in their wooden house 1km away from the hypocentre of the blast, two months after the bombing.

This is a slab of concrete pulled from the rubble. Note the marks found all over it. That's from shards of glass pelting its surface due of the blast. Elsewhere in the museum are various other pieces of glass surgically removed from survivors. Some of these shards were removed some 20 or 40 years after, such was the force with which the glass was driven into their bodies...

Some shots of the aftermath. The bottom picture was taken by Yoshito Matsuhige about 2.5 hrs after the bombing took place, about 2.2km from the hypocentre. Quote:
"I fought with myself for 30 minutes before I could take the first picture. After taking the first, I grew strangely calm and wanted to get closer. I took about ten steps forward and tried to snap another, but the scenes I saw were so gruesome my viewfinder clouded with tears."

It was an extremely sobering experience to be here, thinking about and seeing what it was like that day. A lot of the art and testimonials from survivors talk about people with their glowing red skin hanging off or victims diving into the nearby rivers in an attempt to ease the pain. Others show the effect of the black rain caused by nuclear fall out while the Memorial Hall remains ever hopeful that people will discover the names of the 70,000 yet unidentified victims to add to the 16,000 also recorded.

Of course, while the focus is on the specific event, it's not difficult to extrapolate all these effects and images to what has, is, and likely will continue happening across the globe.

Interesting, Hiroshima has thoroughly rebuilt itself and there is very little evidence of the bombing save for the cobble stones underneath the tram tracks. In fact, I'd venture to say that while Hiroshima has lots of history, travelling between these historical places offers very little; it's like "localized history". On the other hand, as you can see two pictures above, it does offer very stark contrast between the historic A-Bomb Dome and the more recent buildings nearby serving as reminder that the human spirit does not perish so easily.

Some samples of the A-Bomb Dome textures, shapes, and colours

Continued in Part 2

Hiroshima - Part 2

The day after, I headed to Miyajima (known formally as Itsukushima), an island just off the coast west of Hiroshima, located within the Inland Sea. Found on the island are many temples and shrines (including the Itsukushima Shrine), the O-torii (Big Gate), and Mt. Misen. The O-torii is of particular interesting since it account for the other half of the reason why I came to Hiroshima (the first being the Genbaku Dome).

As you can see above, it's a floating gate!! Ok, it's not actually, but at high tide, it does look like it. I've always been intrigued with this particular torii and perhaps I built it up a bit too much because it was almost underwhelming when I saw it. I expected it to be super massive and hundreds of metres out in the water and perhaps radiating some kind of ethereal vermilion... and though it is very pretty and quite immense, it wasn't as big as I thought it'd be nor was it particularly far. But at least I can check it off my list haha...

Amongst its various temples, hiking paths, and other features, Miyajima is also home to wildlife very accustomed to humans. In fact, the deer are known to follow people around and help clean the park by eating whatever they can find, including hand-out maps of the island... and what better date than going to Miyajima and sharing a tasty folded paper map??

Right next to the O-torii is the Itsukushima Shrine. It's built on stilts, is surrounded by water at high tide, and has a three pronged pier the middle of which points directly at the gate. Being so, however, means it's inevitably crowded with people so I offer this shot of the entrance walkway instead =P...

The banister on the staircase leading up to the Daisho-in Temple. Founded in 806 by Kobo Daishi, one of the most famous monks in Japan, it's rather important in that it's the oldest temple found in Miyajima as well as the principal temple for Shingon Buddhism.... now that I think about, I really should add a picture of the temple... I'll get to that later haha.....

From there you can take the Daisho-in hiking course (read: stairway) to the top of Mt. Misen, the highest point on Miyajim at 535m. Interesting, it felt much higher and much steeper than Mt. Takao despite the latter being higher at 600m. Either way, climbing offers rather interesting views such as...

... the O-torii and...

... more deer!

After you've huffed and puffed your way to the top, there's a free observation tower for you take in the sights of being on the highest peak at Miyajima. There's also exorbitantly over-priced drinks for sale but I guess nothing tastes better after a big hike than a $3 bottle of Pocari Sweat =P... In the upper picture, the tree on the right conveniently points to Hiroshima.

A few minutes walk from the observation tower is the Reika-do Eternal Flame Hall. As the name suggests, the hall houses a flame lit by Kobo Daishi in 806 and has been burning for 1200 since. Apparently, however, it also contains 1200 years of ash floating around as walking inside made my eyes instantly water... on a lighter note (no pun intended heh), this flame was used to light the Peace Flame at Peace Park in Hiroshima.

I took the Momojidani Course down which, despite being free, was rather boring. It's basically a nature hike and there's little to see except for some very natural nature. It's pretty easy to walk, having less steps than the Daisho-in course but those with weak knees would be recommended the Ropeway gondola, although that costs 1000yen (!). Reaching the bottom after 6 hrs of wandering the island, I was greeted again by the O-torii but this time at low-tide. You're free to walk out to the gate (and many people do; I waited a long time to get the above shot) and the gate really does become immense then. You have to crane your neck to see every detail- detail like the massive tree trunks used as the main pillars or the coins jammed into various places by boaters hoping for good luck.

Ironically, the gate is prettiest at high-tide yet its presence is most impressive at low-tide...

Some samples of Miyajima shapes and textures...

On the last day, I went for a short walk at the Shukkeien Gardens next to Hiroshima Station before getting a tour at Mazda.

The Shukkeien Garden is man-made yet designed to replicate various popular scenery at 4/5 scale. It's got a small pagoda to relax in, a stone bridge (seen above, on the left), mini waterfalls abound. It's actually rather pretty, like a man-made piece of art would be.

I'm not really sure how I feel about such man-made nature areas, but it turns out that the park is quite old as a small plaque shows how most of the park was destroyed in the atomic bombing. And it does have some rather quaint stepping stone bridges and paths and whatnot...... it's a bit like the Sun Yat Sen Garden in Vancouver I guess....

The last event of the day was a tour of the Mazda Museum and factory. It wasn't as comprehensive as the Honda museum although they're not as big as Honda. I also thought it was biased a bit too heavily towards the rotary engine. I mean, I know that's what they're famous for, but they have lots of innovative and famous non-rotary cars as well (the Miata above is one of them).

But they do have a good collection of old and important cars, including this 1991 787B, the only Japanese race car to win the 24hrs of Le Mans. Powered by the 4-rotor 40B (seen on the right), it proved to the world the funny little triangle in a peanut shaped housing was here to stay.

Unfortunately no pictures were allowed inside the factory, but it was nice being in there. The Mazda assembly line is rather nice in that various cars can be assembled on the same line, and parts are delivered to specific stations (ie- dashboard station, taillight station) and the require parts are delivered from the floor below. This way, technicians can be trained to install similar parts on 3 or 4 cars and work an area for a shift, allowing the assembly line to more fine tune it's supply to meet demand.

Some samples of Mazda textures and shapes...

This last picture, besides looking cool in my opinion, is interesting in that Mazda has become the first manufacturer to develop a method to fully recycle the plastic in bumpers. It's been quite difficult to do since different bumpers use different types of plastics and are covered in different paints, but Mazda's process is more effective at separating the various components and can thus better recycle the material.

And thus was my whirlwind tour of Hiroshima. I do apologize if the writing is a bit curt this time around, as it's getting really late and I'm headed to Nara first thing tomor-... this morning... but I wanted to put this up anyway.

This last pic I took as my train sped towards Tokyo. Japan- Land of the Setting Sun?

Sunday, 10 May 2009

Honda Heaven...

WARNING - Engineering Nerdiness Ahead!

So to kick start my tour of Japan, I figured what better place to go than to Honda's Twin Ring Motegi race track. Built in 1997 in an effort to bring the Indy Racing League to Japan, it features two race circuits (hence the name), one of which is the only oval super speedway in Japan.

But that's not all. The entire Twin Ring facility actually houses myriad other things including the Honda Collection Hall with its own vehicle restoration facility (seen above), a dirt bike track, driver and rider training courses, a go-kart track, kids' rides, and the Fan Fun Lab which showcases Honda's technological advances.

It's found in Motegi, Tochigi which, despite being home to a motor enthusiast's mecca, is rather uninteresting. I was expecting some massive city fit for a giant race track but it's actually just a small town in the mountains.

This, however, makes the Twin Ring track even more impressive. The glassy smooth asphalt is backed up by rolling, forested mountains and bird chirp in unison with the wail of race engines. In fact, the entire facility is gorgeous, with lots of colourful plants lining the road that services the buildings (above). The natural calm of the area seems to somehow perfectly balance the chaotic race action at the track. It's serene...

But before all that, I should mention a few things about the Shinkansen- it's surprising in typical Japanese fashion. What I mean is that it seems entirely uninteresting at first (like when I first rode it 5 years ago) until you consider just how much effort it takes to make it that uninteresting.

The silky smooth ride? That's thanks to the millimetric precision with which the tracks are laid and joined, coupled with the high-tech computer controlled suspension.

The soothing quietness? That's from the thicker cabin walls and train aerodynamics.

It's even impressive in punctuality; I was quoted an arrival time at Utsunomiya Station of 8:36am and when I stepped off the train and looked at my watch, it said 8:36 on the dot. It's not news that Japanese trains are timely, but local Tokyo trains have so many stops so close to each other that it seems rather achievable. But to time an accelerating and decelerating 200+kmh 16-car train down to the minute?? That's some precise driving...

Anyway, back to the Twin Ring. Once you arrive, you pay a ¥1200 entrance fee and that allows access to everything the place has to offer. I headed for the Honda Collection Hall first.

This museum is an absolute must go for anyone even remotely interested in cars or bikes. When you enter, you're greeted with some of Honda's most important products that have shaped the company, like the Honda S600, Honda Cub, and one of their very first generators (above, L to R, respectively). From there you continue most or less chronologically up the floors to their most recent race cars, the 2002 Jordan-Honda EJ12, 2005 BAR 005, 2006 Honda RA106, and the 2007 Honda RA107 (below, L-R, respectively).

But even more than that, the 3 floor, 5 exhibit museum (quietly playing its generic classical music) is everything I approve of in a museum. It's comprehensive in scope, articulate in explanation, and thoughtful in organization. It's also respectful, displaying a fair number of non-Honda models that have inspired Honda's development. With few but steady visitors and a very friendly (and pretty!) all-female staff, it's a great place to slowly see how things have progressed over time, which isn't easy for museums to do.

There was also a special exhibit called 世界のかわいい乗り物たち (sekai no kawaii nori mono tachi) which translates as "The cute vehicles of the world". Umm.... right..... I was ready to skip it but then I read Honda's translation which said "The lovely vehicles in the world". Peering into their special exhibit hall, I found out the aptly named exhibit had some of the quaintest and quirkiest old cars and bikes from around the world. I don't know where they got them (probably very generous owners loaned them to the museum), but it included very rare yet innovative cars from all corners of the globe, including a 3-wheeled Messerschmitt KR200 seen above.

It also held some very early pieces of Honda history, including this "Auxiliary Engine" attached to a bicycle produced by Honda R&D in 1946 (above, R). Using post-war radio generator engines hooked up to bicycles, it provided the war stricken Japanese with cheap, powered transport.

Next to that display was this, a replica 1885 Daimler Reitrad, the world's first motorcycle. Built by the company Daimler Benz (aka Mercedes-Benz), note the test model's "training wheel".

One interesting point is that scattered across the museum are various innovative non-Honda machinery from around the world. Soichiro Honda was keen on buying some of the best machinery in the world in order to study them closely. As a result, while similar looking vehicles followed a few years later (L- 1953 Honda Benly J, R- 1950 NSU Fox), it helped Honda rapidly develop technologically.

Not everything was copied though, like these 1975 Roller Through Gogo's. Note the big pedal in the back; pushing it backward would make the Gogo.... go =P

Of course, it includes important milestones in Honda's automobile history, including a personal favourite of mine, an original 1992 NSX-R.

Lastly, a great touch in all the exhibits is a timeline of all the products in said exhibit. The racing halls even show which race series the vehicle competed in and whether they won the series championship that year.

And as Honda has always been heavily involved in competition, the results are seen in the dramatic difference between the high-tech 1998 Honda CBR900RR Isle of Man racer and the vintage 1960 Honda RC143, both race winners of their era.

Bored as some of you may be, stick with me cuz we're almost done =P...... once finished with the Collection Hall, I wandered towards the racing circuit which was holding short sprint races (5-, 7-laps) all day. Best of all, there was no entrance fee so I was free to take in an Elise Cup race, a Civic 1-make race, and a Formula 4 race. And ample opportunity to see their pace car (above) as well as practice my panning photography skills (the last one is a personal favourite of mine)...

With the race cars come guys who want to drive race cars. But because some can't, they spend their money on great road cars instead. Seen around Twin Ring all day include an Audi S5, a BMW E92 M3, GT-R's (R32 through R35), a Lancia Deltia Integrale, NSX's, a Porsche 911 GT2, and Lotuses (Lotii?) including the Elise (SI and SII), Exige, Europe, and Sport 2-Eleven.

Of course, only I call paying ¥1200 to stand amongst ear-bleedingly loud race cars under a boiling hot sun a good day out =P...

But that's not all. A quick drop into the Fan Fun Lab showed the biggest secret in the entire facility. What is disguised as a children's play area is actually a marvelous collection of Honda's technical ability including their recently released FCX hydrogen fuel cell car, a prototype of their HondaJet private business jet, and ASIMO!!

Even better was a 15-min ASIMO Live presentation which showed just how far Honda's "Advanced Step in Innovative MObility" has come in the past 20 years. No only can ASIMO walk, he (it?) can move all the same joints humans can, stand on one leg, kick a ball, pick-up/carry/place a tray of drinks, walk backward, and run. And it's real running, as high-speed film have shown that ASIMO is completely airborne for a brief moment with each stride.

Oh, he also dances, doing an entire routine rather well...


(L to R) Go ASIMO, do the mash potato, peanut butter jelly time, do the... umm... robot?


If you stuck with me the whole way through, I applaud you. If you just skipped my blabbing and just looked at the pictures, I totally understand =P...

It's a good thing I don't live in Motegi otherwise I'd spend all my weekends driving around the track and visiting ASIMO... actually, I do wish I lived near there, so I could spend all my weekends downshifting in braking zones and winding out an engine on corner exits... anyway =P...

In the end, Twin Ring Motegi turned out to be more than just a little hole for car nerds to go to. It's actually an in depth look into the past and the future of technical ability. And not just Honda's, but the world's.

Saturday, 9 May 2009

T-minus... well... 1 day, really...

First off, I should say that (with thanks to my parents and especially my aunt) I got my JR Rail Pass sorted out. I can now travel on any JR train for free until May 30th. Well, almost any, as the pass does not allow travel on the fastest bullet trains, the Nozomi Shinkansen. Luckily, Nozomi routes are also serviced by other Shinkansen so what I lose in time I gain in money-not-spent.

I should also mention that I was initially a bit bummed about not riding on Nozomi trains since the Nozomi service runs my favourite, 500-series trains. However, it turns out that the Shinkansen services are named after the speed upon which the trains reach (and the number of stops en route) and don't refer to the actual train running that line.

As such, 500-series trains are used on other, non-Nozomi routes and likewise, a Nozomi route doesn't always have a 500-series train running it- any train capable of the required speed runs the route, such as the 300-, 700-, and N700-series trains. And so, if I dig around a little bit, I'm sure I'll be able to find a route that runs a 500-series train and ride it just for the sake of riding it =P...

But I digress... now that I have the pass, I'm free to travel as I like and this week, my schedule includes:

May 10 - The Honda Collection Hall, Twin Ring Motegi, Tochigi [return to Tokyo]
May 11-13 - Hiroshima (Genbaku Dome, Miyajima, Mazda Museum) [return to Tokyo]
May 14-15 - (tentative) Nara [direct to...]
May 15-16 - Nagoya [return to Tokyo]
May 17 - Kawagoe, Saitama [return to Tokyo]
May 18-? - Sapporo

Also, I forgot to mention that last Thursday I visited Mt. Takao. Barely an hour outside of Tokyo, it's popular with hikers and makes for a half-decent day trip. But only if you've done everything else on your list...

Anyway, there are multiple paths up to the peak and, tempted by the chance to see a waterfall, I went up path #6 and came down path #1, the one tourists usually take. Turns out the waterfall is more like a trickle-fall and, on the way down, I got to see the backsides of all the temples on path #1.

In truth, there isn't that much to see. It's not that high and the city's a bit too far to see anything spectacular, as evidenced by the fact that none of my selected pictures include scenery... But the hike itself is rather peaceful, especially the paths less common.

These are neat- stone statuettes all around the mountain. It appears the people living nearby knit hats and such for them in the winter. Aww...

Like at the Meiji-Jingu Shrine, people can write down their wishes on wooden blocks and hang them at the shrine. These, however, look like Japanese geta (sandals)...

I couldn't really tell what these boards were for, but there was a massive wall of them and they appear to be people's names. Perhaps it's a grave listing... or people who've donated to the shrine... or... I dunno heh.....

Be sure to check back soon for updates on the trip! I'll leave you with a few more pictures from Mt. Takao.


Thursday, 7 May 2009

Your Japanese word of the week is...

tori'i 鳥居 which refers to the wooden gates often found at Japanese shrines. I'm not really sure what the apostrophe is for, but I would presume to get people to say "to-ri-ee" as opposed to "to-ree".... either way.....

In all honesty, the gates themselves are not anything amazing. They are interesting the first time you see them; the neat curve to the upper part (in some designs) and the simplicity of their build. But aside from colour and detailing, they only vary slightly in their design. Although with such a simple basic design, that's to be expected.

However, they are found standing guard in front of many unique sights around Japan. And they are found in interesting places, like in the middle of the water at Miyajima or a massive row of them at the Fushimi Inari shrine.

Anyway, I'll be going to see both of those and probably more as I make my way across Japan. A trip which, despite a slip-up on my part, is looking good to start from the next few days onward.

Til then...