Wednesday 13 May 2009

Your Japanese word of the week is...

"genbaku" 原爆 which means "atomic bomb". As to be expect, I kicked off my first real "far" destination with Hiroshima, the unenviable home to the world's first nuclear bomb attack on August 6, 1945. I won't go into the details as I'm sure you guys can (and should) read more about it later.

But before we go any further, I'd like to make two points:

1- Yes, you might notice some vignetting in some of my photos. That's because I left my polarizing filter on the whole trip- even when shooting at really wide angles.... oops haha....

2- I sort of became intrigued with patterns, symmetry, and textures, so some of the pictures will reflect that... I really don't know much when it comes to shooting them (or anything, really haha) so feel free to comment...

Anyway...

A short ride on the tram from Hiroshima Station drops you off right at the entrance to Peace Park and right at the tram-side entrance is the view of the Genbaku-dome, or the Atomic Bomb Dome. This was one of the few structures that still stood after the bombing and is the only structure that remains to this day. It originally served as the Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall and now serves as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a timely reminder of what happened some 60 years ago.

The park itself is really rather peaceful (no pun intended) and it does a good job of isolating the city's noise as well as feeling open despite the flocks of tourists and Hiroshima citizens (Hiroshimians?? Hiroshimites?? heh) who relax here. I particularly like the fact that, because of the park's history, it seems to exude a subtle yet strong sombre feel to it and everything around it quiets down as if in reflective contemplation- some people even take up activities such as painting or sketching the dome (above).

This is the statue at the Monument for Teachers and Students of Elementary Schools. That is, teachers and students affected by the bombing. Notice the huge drapes of folded origami cranes dedicated to one Sadako Sasaki, more famously known as the little girl who believed folding 1000 paper cranes would cure her radiation-induced leukemia. Some of her original cranes can be found in the Peace Museum and other cranes can be found all over the park, especially at the statue dedicated to Sadako.

Above is the Memorial Cenotaph. It houses the names of every person who perished the day of the bombing and lines up directly with both the Peace Flame (T-shaped object in the mid-ground) and the Dome in the back. The Peace Flame has burnt continuously since 1964 and will do so until all the world's nuclear weapons are disposed of.

To the right of the Memorial Cenotaph is this, the Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims. Both outside and inside (seen above) contain a fountain with a clock shape frozen at 8:15am, the time the bomb went off. The inside is particularly amazing in that, as you can see above, it contains a gigantic mural of the view of Hiroshima after the bombing. More than that, the entire mural is actually a mosaic of 140,000 individual tiles- the same as the number of victims believed to have perished by the end of 1945.

A short walk from the Memorial Hall is the Peace Memorial Museum which walks visitors through the history of Hiroshima, development of the atomic bomb, events leading up to the bombing, and the after-effects. The upper picture is a display showing the height at which the Little Boy bomb exploded (600m above ground) and the picture below are some before and after shots I put together. The left side are before the bombing, the right side being the result. The white square in the bottom right picture is the hypocentre.

Also in the museum are various items donated by survivors or families of survivors. The helmet and tricycle above are from a man's 3 year old son who perished in the initial blast. The man buried the items with his son in his yard. Forty years later, as he transferred the remains of his son to the family grave, he donated the tricycle and helmet to the museum.

The above photo shows a sister and brother, who were in their wooden house 1km away from the hypocentre of the blast, two months after the bombing.

This is a slab of concrete pulled from the rubble. Note the marks found all over it. That's from shards of glass pelting its surface due of the blast. Elsewhere in the museum are various other pieces of glass surgically removed from survivors. Some of these shards were removed some 20 or 40 years after, such was the force with which the glass was driven into their bodies...

Some shots of the aftermath. The bottom picture was taken by Yoshito Matsuhige about 2.5 hrs after the bombing took place, about 2.2km from the hypocentre. Quote:
"I fought with myself for 30 minutes before I could take the first picture. After taking the first, I grew strangely calm and wanted to get closer. I took about ten steps forward and tried to snap another, but the scenes I saw were so gruesome my viewfinder clouded with tears."

It was an extremely sobering experience to be here, thinking about and seeing what it was like that day. A lot of the art and testimonials from survivors talk about people with their glowing red skin hanging off or victims diving into the nearby rivers in an attempt to ease the pain. Others show the effect of the black rain caused by nuclear fall out while the Memorial Hall remains ever hopeful that people will discover the names of the 70,000 yet unidentified victims to add to the 16,000 also recorded.

Of course, while the focus is on the specific event, it's not difficult to extrapolate all these effects and images to what has, is, and likely will continue happening across the globe.

Interesting, Hiroshima has thoroughly rebuilt itself and there is very little evidence of the bombing save for the cobble stones underneath the tram tracks. In fact, I'd venture to say that while Hiroshima has lots of history, travelling between these historical places offers very little; it's like "localized history". On the other hand, as you can see two pictures above, it does offer very stark contrast between the historic A-Bomb Dome and the more recent buildings nearby serving as reminder that the human spirit does not perish so easily.

Some samples of the A-Bomb Dome textures, shapes, and colours

Continued in Part 2

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